This is the pattern that I have been working on for socks suitable for a toddler – they fit my DD 2.5 beautifully, and are the same size as bought (cotton) socks she has in size 2-4 so should fit at least 2-3 year olds. DD has a 16cm diameter ankle, and you knit the sock length to suit the individual child.
The stitch pattern is adapted for use in the round from the Harmony Guide for Lace and Eyelet stitches.
I knit this pair from the leftover “Blue Skies Baby” Vintage Purls sock yarn.
2.5mm needles (DPNs or magic loop circular needles) using 4 ply sock yarn (less than 50g), one stitch marker, yarn needle for sewing up.
The pattern was tested using magic loop, however you may knit it using two circulars or DPNs.
Gauge 8 stitches per inch
k6, moss stitch 9 sts , K to end of round.
Pattern B: 9 stitch pattern panel between asterisks is not repeated
Row 1: k6 * K1, yfon, sl 1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, yfon, k1 * knit to end of round
Row 2 , 4, and 6 – knit
Row 3: K6 * k2, yfon, sl 1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, yfon, k2* knit to end of round
Row 5: k6 *k3, yfon, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yfon, k3* knit to end of round
k – knit
p – purl
sl – slip
psso – pass slip stitch over
k2tog – knit two stitches together
yfon – yarn forward and over needle – this is essentially two times around the needle, but you only pick up one stitch from it next round, giving you a larger hole.
moss stitch – k1, p1
Cast on 44 stitches and join in the round. Arrange so that you have two groups of 22 stitches. Knit 6 rows of k2 p2 rib
Start pattern: Work 4 rows pattern A, then a 6 row repeat of pattern B. Work 8 rows pattern A
If you want a longer sock, continue to alternate 8 rows of pattern A with 6 rows of pattern B until desired length reached.
Divide for heel flap:
Work on the stitches on your second needle (non-patterned stitches).
Work back and forth in stocking stitch on the 22 stitches for the heel flap, slipping the first stitch of every row. Work 17 rows ending with a purl row.
Work heel decreases as follows:
Row 1(= RS): Work row until 7 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 2 (= WS): Work row until 7 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece,
Row 3 (= RS): Work row until 6 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 4 (= WS): Work row until 6 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Continue to decrease like this with 1 less st between each dec until there are 10 sts on row.
After the heel decreases knit across the stitches, pick up and knit 9 sts on the side of the heel, knit in pattern (B) across stitches from held needle, place a stitch marker, and pick up 9 sts on the other side of the heel.
(Make sure that you pick up both sides of the stitch for a nice smooth look)
Continuing to work in pattern for the upper foot, alternating an 8 row repeat of Pattern A with a 6 row repeat of Pattern B, work the following decreases for the heel gusset:
Knit across the stitches on the heel needle to last three stitches, k2tog, k1
Knit across the upper foot stitches, slip stitch marker, k1, ssk, knit to end of round.
Knit one round even
Repeat these two rounds until 42 stitches remain (3 decreases total). Remove stitch marker, and rearrange stitches so first 22 stitches are on needle one (patterned stitches) and second 22 stitches are on needle two.
Continue to knit sock, keeping upper foot in pattern, until the foot is 2cm less than desired length. Then work the toe decreases.
Row 1, 3, 5: ssk, knit to final two stitches on needle, k2tog. Repeat for second needle
Row 2, 4 and 6: knit
Work decrease row 4 more times until 10 stitches remain on each needle.
Use kitchener grafting to join the live stitches on each needle.
Sew in ends.
Give to a cute toddler who will wear and enjoy.
Thanks to my awesome test knitters for their ideas and feedback 😀 It was much appreciated.