Posts Tagged 'free pattern'

Good and Chunky Dishcloths

I love a good chunky cotton dishcloth for wiping up in the kitchen. I also love a good fast knit.  These dishcloths are for a Christmas gift, and I was able to whip these three up in one afternoon and evening.  One more thing ticked off my to-do list!

If you would like to knit up some quick dishclothes, here is the pattern that I used for each of the cloths – the top two are ‘Dotty”, and the bottom one is “Knotty”

Each has the same list of requirements

25g/35m each of two different cotton yarns – 50g/70m in total. I used Anchor Magicline and other cotton from stash.

5mm knitting needles

Dotty

Cast on 31 stitches using a two strands of cotton yarn on 5mm needles.

Knit 6 rows  and then start this pattern:

Row 1: Knit

Row 2 and all following wrong side rows: Knit 4, purl to 4 stitches before the end of the row, knit 4

Row 3: Knit 4, *k2, k2tog, yo* repeat * to last 7 stitches, knit 7

Row 4: as row 2

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: as row 2

Row 7: Knit 4 *k2tog, yo, k2* repeat * to last 4 stitches, knit 4

Row 8: as row 2

Repeat these 8 rows. ( I repeated them 4 times for a 15cmx15cm square cloth.)

Knit 6 rows.

Cast off.

Knotty

Cast on 32 stitches, using two strands of yarn held together over 5mm needles.

Row 1: Knit 1 *k2tog* repeat * until 1 stitch remains, k1.

Row 2: Knit 1 *K1, pick up strands between this stitch and the next stitch and knit it* repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Row 3: Knit

Row 4: Purl

Repeat these four rows until cloth reaches desired length ( I did 13 repeats for a 15cmx15cm cloth.)

Cast off.

I’ll pop a project page  up on Ravelry, I’d love to see some pictures of your cloths if you whip some up too!

Dolce: Free Sock Pattern

Twelve months ago when I began this blog, I selected three recently wound balls of sock yarn and photographed them for my header. When we left for our holiday, I took the pink yarn with me in my luggage, well aware it was the sole survivor of the header yet to be knit up. This yarn had been waiting its turn to be knit up, but it was a case of really wanting to have the right pattern to use for it.  Unable to find what I wanted, I figured it was time to *make* a pattern that I thought suited the yarn. And of course I am sharing it with you all 🙂  Just in case it suits a skein of yarn that you have waiting its turn in your stash.

The yarn is by Vintage Purls, and it is one of the standard colourways (which aren’t often available now, but can be dyed on request) called Dolce. This is a musical term which means “sweetly and lightly” and I thought it a good name for the pattern too – I wanted something light and lacy, with some sweet wee details. So I have included a slip stitch heel and reverse stocking stitch gusset which add to the beauty of the pattern.

Dolce

Gauge: 8 sts per inch on 2.5mm needles using 4 ply sock yarn

Lace Pattern:

Row 1: (k2, p1, yon, k2togtbl, p1) repeat to end

Row 2: (k2, p1) repeat to end

Row 3: (k2, p1, k2tog, yfon, p1)   repeat to end

Row 4:  (K2, p1) repeat to end

Abbreviations:

Yon = yarn over needle

Yfon – yarn forward over needle

Tbl = through the back loop

Ssk – Slip two stitches to right needle and then knit them together

Psso – pass the slipped stitch over

Cast on 66 stitches and work 10 rows in 1×1 rib, then work in lace pattern for 15 repeats, arranging the stitches as follows: needle 1 30 sts, needle 2, 36 sts

Then:

Turn work and purl across 34 sts, slip final two sts from needle 2 to needle 1.

Work these 34 sts as follows:
Row 1: (s1, k1) repeat to end

Row 2: s1, purl to end

Work 35 rows total in this pattern and then proceed to heel turn.

Heel Turn:
Row 1: Knit 19, ssk k1 turn

Row 2: Purl 5 P2 tog. P1 turn

Row 3: Knit to one stitch before gap, ssk, k1 turn

Row 4: Purl to one stitch before gap, p2 tog, turn

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been worked, then proceed to gusset section.

Gusset:
Knit across all stitches on the needle them pick up stitches along side of heel flap, picking up one stitch for each slipped stitch and one in the gap between needle 1 and 2.

Knit in pattern across needle 1 and then pick up sts along side of heel flap, picking up one stitch between the front and heel flap and one for each slipped stitch.

Knit across the instep stitches until 12 stitches before the end of needle. Place stitch marker.  Purl the final 12 sts before end of needle. Knit in pattern across needle one, place stitch marker. Purl 12 sts, place stitch marker and then knit to end of round. (These directions assume 60 stitches total for the instep section. If you have more or less, adjust the number of purled stitches so that you will end up with 36 instep stitches)

Decrease round: Knit to first stitch marker, purl to last 2 stitches s of needle 2, k2tog, work across lace panel in pattern, p2tog, purl to stitch marker, Knit to end of round.

Alternate decrease round with a round knit in this pattern: Knit to first stitch marker, purl to end of needle. Knit in pattern to stitch marker, purl to next stitch marker, knit to end of round.

Continue to alternate these two rounds until all purl stitches have been decreased.  Arrange stitches so that all the instep stitches are all on needle 2 and pattern stitches are all on needle 1. Work even until foot is 2 inches shorter than desired length, and then work toe decreases.

Work toe decreases as follows:

Needle 1: K 1 , ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1, repeat for needle 2.

Work one round even

Alternate until 24 sts remain, then graft remaining stitches. Sew in ends.

Milo Mitts Pattern

As promised, here is my latest pattern, fresh from pattern testing. A big thanks to all of my testers for their feedback and super knitting. You can check out their projects here.

Picture 2645small

 

My little miss loves to be all matchy-matchy.  Nearly as much as she loves Dora.  So I couldn’t resist making a wee pair of fingerless mittens to match her Milo top.

The cable that I used for my Milo was the horseshoe cable. I will share the instructions for this cable here, the other 4 cables in the Milo pattern can be used on these mittens as well. Or you could substitute any cable that uses 8 knit stitches.

 The instructions are for 3 sizes: 1, 2 and 4.

Size 1 is knit on 3.75mm needles, and utilises the same stitch numbers as size 2, but is knit at a tighter gauge. The thumb should be knit two rows shorter.

Sizes 2 and 4 are knit on 4mm needles, with a gauge of 6 stitches and 9 rows to an inch in stocking stitch.

I love to knit using magic loop, but you could easily knit these mittens on DPNs instead. They have also been tested on a 30cm circular needle.

 Materials: You will need approximately 20-40g of DK weight yarn for each pair of Milo Mitts. Also you will use two stitch markers and some scrap yarn as a stitch holder.

 Abbreviations:

 

2×2 Rib – knit 2, purl 2 stitches

pm – place marker (stitch marker)

M1R – Make one, right leaning increase. Pick up the bar between the stitches with your left needle coming from in front of the bar and knit through the back of the picked up bar.

M1L – Make one, left leaning increase. Pick up the bar between the stitches with your left needle coming from behind the bar and knit through the front of the picked up bar.

These paired increases make a tidy thumb increase.

Picture 2665detail

 There are two options for this pattern as shown below option 1 is shown in “Watermelon” colourway by The Wool Company. It features a garter stitch cuff. Option 2 is shown in a now deleted pink Wool Company colourway and features a 2×2 ribbed cuff.

 Picture 2665small

You will need to knit a ‘left’ mitt and a ‘right’ mitt as the cable is on the top of the glove.

Horseshoe Cable Pattern:

 Abbreviations:

C4F – slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold at the front of the work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

C4B – slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold at the back of the work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

 

Round 1-3: p2, k8, p2.

Round 4: p2, C4B, C4F, p2

Round 5-6: p2, k8, p2.

Pattern:

 

Left Mitt

Cuff Option 1:

Cast on 28 (32) stitches, join in the round and work alternating rounds of knit and purl for 1 inch.

Knit one round, increasing 2 (4)  stitches evenly across the round, bringing the total to 30 (36) stitches.

Round 1: sets up for the cable.  k 3 p2 k8, p2,  knit to end of round

Round 2 : knit in pattern as set above.

Knit 8 (10) rounds in pattern, beginning cable as per cable instructions. Then continue on to Round 3 below, continuing to work cable in established pattern.

 Cuff Option 2:

Cast on 28 (32)  stitches, join in the round and work 2×2 rib for 2 (2.5) inches.

You should have 14 stitches on needle 1 and 14 on needle 2.

Knit one round, increasing 2 (4) stitches evenly across the round, bringing total to 30 (36) stitches. *

Round 1: sets up for the cable.  k 3 p2 k8, p2,  knit to end of round

Round 2 : knit in pattern as set above.

Round 3:  knit in pattern to last stitch, PM, M1R, K1.

Round 4: k1 M1L, PM, knit around in pattern.

Round 5:  k2 M1L, Option2 works cable row here [ k2, p2, C4B, C4F, p2, knit to marker] * , knit to marker, M1R, k2

Round 6: knit around in pattern

Round 7:  Knit to marker, M1L,slip marker knit in pattern to marker, slip marker, M1R, knit to end of row.

Continue to alternate rounds 6 and 7 until there are 10 (12) stitches between markers.

Then – knit one round with no increases to final stitch marker. Remove all the stitches between markers onto a stitch holder – I use a piece of scrap yarn.

Cable cast on two stitches and work cable pattern until desired length.

Option one: work one round purl, one round knit, one round purl, and cast off in knit.

Option two: cast off.

 Thumb:

Place the 10 (12) stitches from holder onto needle. Pick up and knit 6 stitches along the top of the thumb. 16 (18) stitches.

Knit around, when you get back to 6 cast on stitches, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together.

Knit 1 round without decreases then knit to cast on stitches, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit around until desired length. Approx 2 (4) rounds.

 Those knitting Option One may wish to work one purl round before casting off  in garter stitch.

Right hand

Work as for left hand until * (just after increase round)

 Round 1: k 1 p2 k8, p2 knit to end of round.

Round 2:  knit in pattern as set

[Option 1: Knit 8 (10) rounds in pattern, beginning cable as per cable instructions rather than beginning in Round 5 below. Then continue on to Round 3 below, continuing to work cable in established pattern. ]

Round 3: k1 p2 k8 p2, k2, PM, M1R, K2, M1L, PM, knit to end of round.

Round 4:  knit around in pattern

Round 5: k1, work cable row [p2,  C4B, C4F, p2] knit to marker, slip marker, M1R , knit to marker, m1L, slip marker,  knit to end of round.

Round 6: knit around in pattern

Round 7: knit in pattern to marker, M1R, knit to marker, slip marker, M1L, knit to end of round.

Continue to alternate rounds 6 and 7 until 10 (12) stitches between markers.

 Then – knit one round with no increases.

On the next round remove all the stitches between markers onto a stitch holder – I use a piece of scrap yarn.

 Cable cast on two stitches and work cable pattern until desired length, cast off. Again, you may wish to work a couple of rows in garter stitch before you cast off if you are knitting Option 1.

Work the thumb as for Left hand.

Happy Knitting!


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