Posts Tagged 'toddler sock pattern'

Little Monkeys

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After my post the other day about popular sock patterns, I came across a cute variation of Cookie A’s popular sock pattern, Monkey.  Instead of the regular 64 stitch pattern, I found this post on Ravelry where she posted a chart for a 12 stitch repeat, meaning a 48 stitch sock. Perfect for my little monkey.

I cast on 48 stitches and did k1p1 ribbing (instead of twisted rib, which I often have to work myself up to do),  for 8 rows. Then I worked 3 repeats of the pattern, before coming to the heel. What to do? I worked the heel flap and gusset as per my toddler sock pattern, allowing two more rows and two more stitches (as my pattern is 44 stitches).   Because it had more stitches than a pattern that already fit her well, I decreased to 22 stitches on the bottom of the foot and when I did toe decreases worked one extra set on the top of the foot. The toe decreases I worked every row as I was knitting the foot while Miss 3 was asleep and it was nearly too long. I decreased to 20 stitches and then grafted the toe. The end result is a good fit, somewhat roomy around the leg, as you can see by the baggy ankles but it stays on fine and is ultra cute.

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The yarn is some hand dyed Patonyle sock yarn which I dyed back in about April. Miss 3 loved it then, and she is delighted to finally have some socks from it!  It’s a semi solid with just small variations in colour, but it has knit up really sweetly, and I am really pleased with it.

And the pattern? I can see why Monkey is popular. Mostly when you hear me whinge on about the difficulties of lace knitting, it’s because it’s not intuitive. This pattern is. After reading the chart for half of the first repeat, that was it. No more pattern reading. Gotta love that! The original chart is an 11 row repeat.  This version is 9 rows, but freed from pattern reading, it’s a real pleasure to knit. And would I knit it again? Sure! I can see more monkeys, big and little, coming to join our sock family. And in fact, there is even a pattern adaptation on Raverly for micro-mini Monkeys.  So even Miss 1 might get a pair of teeny hand knit socks.

And speaking about monkeys, my wee monkeys have been keeping busy in the last wee while. I thought you might like to see some of what they have been crafting themselves.

Miss 3 “made” this bus for her “mannies” (aka Little People)

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And on Friday we played hookie from playgroup (too wet) and stayed home instead. Miss 1 enjoyed putting the pencils in and out of the container, while Miss 3 enjoyed some colouring, rubbing out, cutting, glueing and glitter. These were taken before all the messy fun – ‘cuse their slightly bohemian appearance – they are going thru a bead phase. Although note , Aunty D, the star set – she loves it so much she sleeps in it 🙂 Thanks!Picture 3020small

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And, if you ever needed proof playing dress up is exhausting…

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A new sock pattern: Jimmy

I’ve been rather busy the last couple of days – excuse the blog break! But it suddenly dawned on me that my father’s birthday was sneaking up on me and I hadn’t organised a present for him. When I got thinking, I realised it would be nice to knit him some socks. And, given the time frame I wanted to use some of my DK weight sock yarn. A quick survey on Ravelry revealled nothing I was keen to knit, so I thought on it overnight and came up with this sock pattern. I hope he likes it.

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Knit from the toe up, this is a super-stretchy 56 stitch pattern – perfect for gift knitting if you don’t know much about the shape of your recipient’s feet.  The twisted rib panel  flows into a gorgeous twisted rib cable that continues right to the cast off. Although cables aren’t especially masculine, these will usually be hidden by trousers, and I could not resist adding them in: the name of the cable is “Seven Sisters” from the Vogue Knitting Stitchionary 2 (p25) which I adapted for use in the round. And my father has seven sisters (and three brothers).  I have called the sock pattern “Jimmy” which is the nickname given to Dad by his sisters.

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I am going to load the pattern onto Ravelry and post it below. But, here’s your chance to win another of the colourways I used for my Jimmys… and then you can knit your own. Knit in Fyberspates DK Space Dyed sock yarn, I bought 5 colourways. You an choose from one of three though, I just can’t part with the green hank! Simply add your comment at the bottom of the post to go in the draw. If you’d like more entries, grab another by mentioning the competition in your blog and leave me a message to let me know you’ve done this.  Two lucky winners will get the chance to pick their favourite colourway. I am happy to post international, and will also include some extra goodies for my two winners. I will close the competition on Friday evening NZ time and contact the winners to let them know.

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From left:  Fiesta, Reds and Plums, Pinks and Purples. This yarn is 100% Blue Faced Leicester, hand wash, and has 300m in a 100 gram hank (handily split in two for even winding).

So, without further ado, or to-do, here’s the pattern. Please let me know if you knit it and spot an error: I’ve only tested it on the second sock so far.

Jimmy

 Toe up sock for DK weight yarn, sample knitted in Fyberspates DK sock yarn. Instructions are for magic loop but the pattern can easily be adapted for knitting with two circulars of on 5 DPNs. It uses a short row heel. I used 3mm needles to get a gauge of 6.5 stitches and 10 rows to one inch. The yarn I used provides 300m per 100g and I used 80 grams in total.

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Abbreviations:
Kfb: knit one front and back: knit into the front and then the back of the stitch, increasing by one stitch.

K1tbl: knit into the back of the stitch by inserting the needle into the back loop rather than the front one. This twists the stitch as you knit it.

Cast on 6 stitches using Turkish cast on and knit 1 round even then:

Round 2:  Kfb, k1, kfb on each needle (10 sts)

Round 3:  Knit 1 round  

Round 4: KFB all around (20 sts)

Round 5:  Knit 1 row even

Round 6: (Kfb, knit to last stitch on needle, kfb) repeat to end of round

Row 7: knit 1 round even

Repeat rounds 6  and 7 until there are 28 stitches on each needle, 56 stitches in total.

Needle 1 becomes the top of the foot, needle 2 is the instep stitches.

 Begin to work the twisted rib pattern:

Needle 1: knit 8, (k1tbl, p1) 6 times, k1tbl, knit7, Needle 2, knit.

 Continue to knit in this pattern until the length of the sock is approximately 6.5cm from desired foot length and then work short row heel as follows:

Knit the stitches from needle one in established pattern.

Row 1: Knit across 27 stitches on needle 2, move the working yarn as if to purl, slip the final unworked stitch from the left needle onto the right needle. Turn.

Row 2: Slip the first stitch (unworked stitch) from the left needle onto the right needle.  Purl the next (wrapped) stitch, then purl across to the last stitch.  Move the working yarn as if to knit and slip the last stitch. Turn

Row 3: Slip the first stitch and knit across to the last stitch before the unworked stitch.  Wrap and turn.

Row 4: Slip the first stitch and purl across to the stitch before the unworked stitch. Wrap and turn.

 Repeat rows 3 and 4 a total of 8 times which leaves 12 stitches unwrapped in the middle.

 To work the second part of the heel:

Row 1: Knit across the 12 live stitches to the first wrapped stitch.  Pick up the wrap and knit it together with the stitch. Wrap the next stitch – so that it has two wraps – and turn.

Row 2: Slip the first stitch (which is double wrapped), and purl across to the first wrapped stitch.  Pick up the wrap and work it together with the stitch. Wrap the next stitch and turn.

Row 3: Slip the first stitch, Knit across to first double wrapped stitch, pick up and knit both wraps with the stitch, wrap the next stitch, turn.

Row 4: Slip the first stitch, Purl across to the first double wrapped stitch, pick up and purl both wraps with the stitch. Wrap the next stitch, turn.

 Repeat until all the wrapped stitches have been worked. You will have 28 stitches on needle 2.

Begin to work in the round again, continuing in the established pattern for needle 1 and knitting across needle 2.

 Work 3 inches in pattern, then work cable round.

Cable round: Knit the first 8 stitches on needle one, and then slip the next 6 stitches onto a cable needle. Hold to the back, and then (k1tbl, p1) 3 times. K1tbl. Taking care not to twist the stitches, work the stitches from the cable needle as follows: (p1,k1tbl) 3 times. Knit to end of round.

 Work 12 rows in established twisted rib pattern and then repeat the cable round. Repeat this until you have crossed 4 cables, then work 3 rows in twisted rib pattern. Set up for rib by reducing one stitch from needle 2 in the final round.

 Rib: beginning with needle 1, (k2, p2) 4x, work twisted rib pattern across next 13 stitches (k1tbl, 1p)6times  k1tbl, then p2, (k2, P2) to end of round.  Repeat this round until ribbing is desired length (approx 2 inches).

Cast off using a stretchy cast off. I use the sewn cast off: Cut yarn to about 45cm, and thread the end into a needle. Beginning with needle one, insert the needle into the first two stitches as if to purl, pull through, leaving both stitches on the needle. Pull needle through first stitch on the needle as if to knit. Cast off this stitch. Repeat this, pulling through two purlwise, one knitwise and casing off one until all stitches have been worked. Pull yarn through the final stitch, and sew in the end.

Wear and enjoy!

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Pattern: Moss and Lace Toddler Socks

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This is the pattern that I have been working on for socks suitable for a toddler – they fit my DD 2.5 beautifully, and are the same size as bought (cotton) socks she has in size 2-4 so should fit at least 2-3 year olds.  DD has a 16cm diameter ankle, and you knit the sock length to suit the individual child. 

The stitch pattern is adapted for use in the round from the Harmony Guide for Lace and Eyelet stitches.

I knit this pair from the leftover “Blue Skies Baby” Vintage Purls sock yarn.

Materials:

 2.5mm needles (DPNs or magic loop circular needles) using 4 ply sock yarn (less than 50g), one stitch marker, yarn needle for sewing up.

The pattern was tested using magic loop, however you may knit it using two circulars or DPNs.

Gauge 8 stitches per inch

 

Pattern A:

k6, moss stitch 9 sts , K to end of round.

 

Pattern B: 9 stitch pattern panel between asterisks is not repeated

Row 1: k6 * K1, yfon, sl 1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, yfon, k1 * knit to end of round

Row 2 , 4, and 6 – knit

Row 3: K6 * k2, yfon, sl 1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, yfon, k2*  knit to end of round

Row 5: k6 *k3, yfon, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yfon, k3*  knit to end of round

 

 

Abbreviations:

k – knit

p – purl

sl – slip

psso – pass slip stitch over

k2tog – knit two stitches together

yfon – yarn forward and over needle – this is essentially two times around the needle, but you only pick up one stitch from it next round, giving you a larger hole.

moss stitch – k1, p1

 

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Pattern:

Cast on 44 stitches and join in the round. Arrange so that you have two groups of 22 stitches. Knit 6 rows of k2 p2 rib

 

Start pattern:  Work 4 rows pattern A, then a 6 row repeat of pattern B. Work 8 rows pattern A

 

If you want a longer sock, continue to alternate 8 rows of pattern A with 6 rows of pattern B until desired length reached.

 

 

Divide for heel flap:

Work on the stitches on your second needle (non-patterned stitches).
Work back and forth in stocking stitch on the 22 stitches for the heel flap, slipping the first stitch of every row. Work 17 rows ending with a purl row.

 

Heel Decreases:

Work heel decreases as follows:
Row 1(= RS): Work row until 7 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 2 (= WS): Work row until 7 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece,
Row 3 (= RS): Work row until 6 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 4 (= WS): Work row until 6 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Continue to decrease like this with 1 less st between each dec until there are 10 sts on row.

 

After the heel decreases knit across the stitches, pick up and knit 9 sts on the side of the heel, knit in pattern (B) across stitches from held needle, place a stitch marker, and pick up 9 sts on the other side of the heel.

 

(Make sure that you pick up both sides of the stitch for a nice smooth look)

 

 

Continuing to work in pattern for the upper foot, alternating an 8 row repeat of Pattern A with a 6 row repeat of Pattern B, work the following decreases for the heel gusset:

Knit across the stitches on the heel needle to last three stitches, k2tog, k1

Knit across the upper foot stitches, slip stitch marker, k1, ssk, knit to end of round.

 

Knit one round even

 

Repeat these two rounds until 42 stitches remain (3 decreases total). Remove  stitch marker, and rearrange stitches so first 22 stitches are on needle one (patterned stitches) and second 22 stitches are on needle two.

 

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Continue to knit sock, keeping upper foot in pattern, until the foot is 2cm less than desired length. Then work the toe decreases.

 

Toe decreases

Row 1, 3, 5: ssk, knit to final two stitches on needle, k2tog. Repeat for second needle

Row 2, 4 and 6: knit

Work decrease row 4 more times until 10 stitches remain on each needle.

 

Use kitchener grafting to join the live stitches on each needle.

 

Sew in ends.

 

Give to a cute toddler who will wear and enjoy.

 

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Thanks to my awesome test knitters for their ideas and feedback 😀 It was much appreciated.


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